To foster or not…

Right now there are dogs in kennels all over the UK who need a new home.  Some of them will be there for a few days, some will be there for a couple of months.  Some may never find a new home.  All the rescues are seeing a big increase in the number of dogs being surrendered for all sorts of reasons.  The cost of living crisis has caused a huge spike in dogs being rehomed.  And yet, at the same time donations have fallen dramatically, particularly to the smaller, local rescues.

Everyone imagines that a dog goes to a kennel when they are surrendered.  And lots do and thrive very successfully. But many small rescues don’t have facilities.  And that’s where the fosterers come in.  People who want to help and may have room to have a dog but not full time.  Or they may have an extra space for another dog.  They may be looking for a dog themselves but don’t know what sort of dog they want.

When a dog goes into foster, the rescue gets a complete picture of the dog in a real life home setting.  They learn about their temperament, Whether they are house trained.  Do they have separation issues?  Are they dog friendly?  Do they have any medical problems?  All these things are a great help for rescues when trying to find the perfect home for a dog.

And the dog itself gets to spend time with people, other pets, children and have some time to relax out of a kennel environment.  Often when a dog has been abused or has some issues a kennel is not the right place for them.  The quiet, calm of a foster home can be just what they need before they go to their new home.   Dogs who go into foster are usually older dogs who have a genuine reason to have a foster place, one dog I know of lost his home when his owner died.  He needed a special foster placement with someone at home all day which gave him time to grieve and decompress.

Are there any downsides?  Well yes.  The dog might be with you for months before they get a home.  They may not be used to living in a home and may be destructive or not house trained.  They may have some special medical or behavioural needs.  A good rescue will always help you to settle the dog in and give you plenty of back up.  I work as a behaviourist for a rescue and often have calls with the fosterers about issues.

So can you offer a space to foster a dog?  Can you open your home to help a dog in need?  Contact your local rescues to see if you can help.  And don’t be afraid to fail.  The best result is a failed fosterer who decides that their foster dog is the right one for them.  But if you do send them on their way to their new home remember you’ve been a really important part of their journey.  And you can then think about the next dog who needs your help.

Article published in Vantage Point Magazine, January 2023

Time to start thinking about those pesky fireworks…

As we start October, it’s time to think of your Firework Management Plan for your dog. Don’t leave it until the day before the 5th November - start preparing now.

A month before… start by using calming tablets and tinctures. I use Dorwest Herbs Valerian & Skullcap tablets and the Valerian Compound. The tablets take longer to get into the system so start them early. There are other herbal tablets available or you can speak to your vet to get something stronger. You can try some of the sound CDs to try and help but I’ve found that the noise of firework in real time is completely different from a recorded one.

A week before… if your dog is particularly prone to anxiety around the fireworks don’t plan to go out. Or if you are going out make sure your dog has a sitter or someone at home. Check with your neighbours if they are planning to have fireworks at home. If they are, you will definitely need to stay in with your dog. And if you have a puppy don’t even think of going out and leaving it at home. That first Bonfire Night will be critical for the rest of their lives.

On the day…

Walk your dog early in daylight. And make sure that they have a proper wee and poop before any noises start. Give them a long, relaxing sniffy walk to tire them out.

Prepare an area where they can settle down. I use a crate covered in a blanket with lots of cushions inside. Keep it away from the windows.

Give them a warm, good quality meal. Lots of meat to fill them up. If you normally feed dry, add some fresh turkey and rice to the mix. Turkey is very good for reducing stress and encouraging sleep. Add some of the Valerian compound to their dinner as well as the tablets.

Close the curtains or blinds. I have blackout curtains so I can’t see anything from outside.

Settle down with a nice blockbuster movie. Something loud that you can watch for a couple of hours. Sit down with a cup of tea, some snacks and your dog. Relax and they will relax too. An action movie will cover up the noise from outside.

If you do decide to put your dog in another room make sure that they are safe and that they have some music on and a light. Personally, I keep mine with me so that they know there’s nothing to worry about. And if you do decide to go out and leave the dog on their own make sure that you don’t leave the tv or radio on a station that might be broadcasting fireworks as well.

Finally, once the fireworks have ended take a torch and go check in your garden for any sticks or residue that may have landed in your garden. You can then let your dog out for a wee and a poop if they need one.

Good news this year (2022) Bonfire Night is on a Saturday. Which means that people just have fireworks on one night only. But I usually prepare for the whole weekend just in case.

For more information about the products and how you can Firework Proof your home, contact me by email at info@rewardsdogtraining.co.uk

Home Alone - dealing with separation anxiety

Since the pandemic lockdowns, people working from home and the increase in dog ownership one of the most common problems I am called in to help with Separation Anxiety.  The anxiety can be minor – from whining a bit when you go out to a full blown episode where your dog barks and howls constantly for the whole time you are gone.

Please remember, that in these cases there are NO quick fixes.  Your dog simply cannot cope without you or someone at home.  They become stressed and anxious and their hormone levels get raised to a point where they can’t stop their behaviour.  An anxious dog will need to find something to relieve the stress so pooping or peeing in the house, chewing woodwork, furniture, doors and walls (yes dogs do chew walls) or something that particularly smells of you (like a remote control or piece of clothing) might seem “naughty” to us but to the dog it’s a way of expressing their distress.

So what should you do to help your dog?

Don’t get another dog.  We often think that dogs need company and they do like a canine companion.  But it won’t stop the anxiety.  It’s you they want and you may end up with two destructive, anxious dogs instead of one.

Start training on day one when you get your new puppy or dog.  Leaving your puppy while you go to the front door, go for a shower, go to another room is a good way to begin.  Even if you are only out of the room for a few seconds, it is the best way to show your dog that it’s okay to be alone.  Build it up from a minute to two minutes, five minutes and so on.  And do practice getting them used to the sound of the front door opening and closing.  If you have a new puppy work on training and don’t leave them for more than an hour in the beginning. Separation Anxiety is not about how long that you are gone but about the fact that you are gone in the first place.

Try and give the dog a safe space to go to.  I use a travel crate for my two dogs to be in while I am out.  They have been trained to go in to the crate from an early age and it means they are safe and relaxed.  They know that I am coming back to let them out.  I also use a webcam to keep an eye on them sometimes!  And most of the time they are asleep!  If you don’t want to use a crate, find a space in a quiet room away from the front door and teach your dog to go to their basket in their space for treats and toys.  Don’t allow your dog to roam around the house as this will just wind them up more.

Remember to give your dog something to keep them occupied while you are gone.  Imagine how boring it would be to sit in a room with no noise and nothing to do for hours?  Use chew toys like Kongs, filled with yummy natural treats or frozen with vegetables and other things your dog likes, so that they have something to concentrate on.  Deep chewing by dogs is really important.  It helps your dog to increase their serotonin and dopamine hormones which will keep them calm and, if you’re lucky, they will sleep while your out.  Leave lots of toys around too and always leave the radio or television on so that they aren’t left in silence to react to every noise they hear.  If you’re out in the evening, leave a light on.

If you are going back to work in the office after months working at home and you can’t get back or you don’t work part time, please think about getting a good dog walker or visitor to come in and spend some time with your dog.  For puppies this is vital as they learn to see new people and when they are older they can walk with other dogs.  Another good choice can be a well-run small doggie daycare.  Your dog will be looked after and should be receiving mental as well as physical stimulation.  Make sure you choose the service you and your dog are happiest with.

Finally, if you think your dog is already showing signs of separation anxiety or is barking or whining when you leave your home you will need some additional help.  Calling in a registered, qualified, professional trainer can help you to see how bad the problem is and what can be done.  And remember it will get worse before it gets better.  But you can work through this behaviour so that your dog becomes relaxed in their own company.

As appeared in Vantage Point Magazine July 2022

BE PREPARED!

This month it’s the build up to Fireworks Night and if your pup has never heard fireworks before or your dog struggles each year it’s a good time to start to get them ready NOW! Read my article in the Cranleigh Magazine at https://www.cranleighmagazine.co.uk/there-will-be-fireworks-sara-bridgeman/

Fall in to Autumn

It’s only been a few days in to September but already I’m thinking about the dark nights and Bonfire Night.  Because for me, the year starts again each September when the summer is over.  To be honest, I’d rather set new goals in the sunny evenings than on a cold, wet January night.  Although I do like those crisp dry days when the sun shines and the dogs get to have a run. 

So how can you stay positive and prepare yourself and your dog for the change in the season?  There are a few things to think about so let’s look at each month individually.

September

It’s still warm out (global warming) and the nights aren’t drawing in yet.  Right now, there are lots of wasps and other insects around.  Be careful when walking near them.  Dogs who put their noses to close to a wasps nest get in trouble!  If your dog does get stung, take it straight to the vets in case they have an allergic reaction.  I have a canine first aid certificate so I can deal with most things and there are a few courses out there that might be good to attend so you can feel more confident. 

For a puppy who has had people around during the summer, the new school term is also a big change.  You will probably take them on the school run in the car or walking.  They may suddenly find that their playmates are away for most of the day.  Try teaching your pup to settle down on its own during the day with a lovely chew and some play time with you.  And encourage them to greet people at the school gate calmly by sitting and waiting. 

October

As you all know, Rupert is an entire male dog.  And he’s four years old so is at the top of his game.  Around this month he will be more attuned to girl dogs.  Poor Edie finds herself as a target for at least two weeks.  She is spayed but has the nice pheromones, smells and hormones that make her so attractive.  For girl dogs who come into season it’s best to keep them at home for a couple of weeks to avoid any accidents. 

Your dog (entire or otherwise) will also be reacting to the scents around him or her.  As the trees and bushes start to drop their leaves the smells build up.  All the spaniels, and dogs with good noses, will be going nuts!  Big piles of leaves attract hedgehogs and other creatures starting to hibernate so be mindful of not letting your dog go straight in without checking first.  Once the leaves are wet the scents increase - mornings are the worst time as the dew is still sitting on the ground amplifying everything. Teaching your dog a firm “leave it” helps you to avoid your dog snuffling and bringing home all the rubbish they find.

It would be about now that I would start thinking of Bonfire Night (although fireworks seem to start earlier and last longer these days).  If your dog is very reactive, you need to see your vet or start using a calming herbal treatment.  I recommend the Valerian Compound or Valerian & Scullcap tablets from Dorwest Herbs (I’m a stockist and have always got these in stock) so come and see me for more information.  For pups who haven’t experienced fireworks before try and be calm when you hear them.  Don’t ignore them but don’t make too much of a fuss.  And just for one year, stay home on the big night rather than leave your pup at home on its own with all the noise.

November

It’s dark now in the evenings by about 5pm so it’s a good time to think about your dogs routine.  Walking in the chilly, wet evenings is no good for anyone so keep those walks short and functional.  Dogs really don’t mind if they get shorter walks at this time of year.  A longer walk in the daylight is much nicer - either with you or a dog walker - and leave the evenings as a chance to practice your training or some mental games instead.

Puppies can also be rather scared in the dark as they often see and hear things we can’t.  So it’s better to keep things short and fun and on lead.  Losing a dog is difficult enough in the daylight but at night it can be scary for all concerned.  I’m thinking of getting a light to attach to the dogs collars or you can buy an LED collar although I think it would annoy me!  My last walk of a night is about 15 minutes and we look at the stars, listen to the owls and then go back indoors for a nice hot cup of tea and a gravy bone.

And finally, if your dog feels the cold buy them a decent coat. My two have single coats and end up looking like drowned rats when they get wet. So they have a fleece coat for cold dry days and a raincoat for wet walks. It’s not silly to put a coat on your dog it’s common sense. Also make sure that you look after their paws. I use a paw balm (Dorwest of course) on their pads so that they stay soft and protected during the wet weather. The balm means a lovely foot massage for your dog too. 

So there you go.  A few tips and ideas for how to make that transition into the autumn a positive experience.  And not a single mention of Christmas… doh!

Buying a puppy? Read this before you buy…

This week I’ve been back at work and, unusually, I’ve had two pre-arrival visits with families who are getting a puppy very soon.  It’s always nice to talk to new owners about what to expect, what to get for their puppy’s homecoming and how to cope during those first few days and nights!  I have a worksheet called New Arrivals and it gives details of starting house training, teaching your pup it’s name and settling them down for the night.

On my visit I can help owners with the reality of getting a new pup.  I never soft soap the fact that it will be hard for a few weeks and that you will - usually after a couple of sleepless nights - think you’ve done the wrong thing.  That’s all very normal.  Every owner, even me has thought that.  But armed with some advice and wanting to do the best for your pup will get you through.  

What I’d like to write about this week is BEFORE you buy your puppy.  Since the start of the pandemic puppy ownership has boomed.  Breeders have seen prices increase by more than 100% in some cases.  And with a shortage of puppies, I’ve seen lots of pups who are badly bred with physical and psychological problems by people who don’t care about the dogs just the money.  I’ve had clients who have bought a Cavapoo only to discover it’s a Cava-Labradoodle.  Or people who thought they had seen the mum only to find out that it wasn’t the mum. So I’m going to offer you some advice about getting a puppy for your family.

Getting a dog from rescue

Unfortunately, rescues are going to be overflowing with pups as people go back to work and realise that a dog isn’t ideal for their lifestyle.   Each rescue has different criteria for adopters.  Some want people at home all day, some insist on no children or children over a certain age.  Best thing is to sign up with lots of rescues and take your time.  I’m only talking about UK rescues in this article as dogs from outside the UK are completely different.  I’ll come back to that in a few weeks time.

Visit lots of centres like Battersea Dogs & Cats Home (they have three branches) or the Dog’s Trust.  Sign up on Facebook with rescues local to you as well.  And be prepared to wait.  Especially if you want a young puppy.  But don’t be afraid to pick a dog that’s a little bit older.  A dog can still be a pup at six months, a year or even 18 months old.  

If you do decide to go for a rescue dog you should get full back up from the rescue and you know that if things go wrong, you can as a last resort return the dog to the rescue.  No one will judge you or think you’re a bad owner.  It just didn’t work out for you or the dog and that sometimes happens.  It happened to me when I brought a lovely rescue Bedlington X Lurcher home to the suburbs from rural Wales.  Six weeks in he hadn’t settled and I was struggling to keep him entertained and exercised.  My circumstances changed and I didn’t want him to be unhappy.  So I took him back to the rescue and as we crossed the Severn bridge in to Wales he gave a deep sigh.  He lives on a farm now with plenty of room to run.

Ask lots of questions about the dog you plan to adopt, visit and see how he gets on with you and the family.  Go home and think about it before returning for another visit.  If the rescue think you are right for the dog, they will hold it for you.  I do a lot of home checks for rescues and for many of the smaller rescues, they will arrange a home check to see what your garden is like, how high the fences are and if you have experience.  I love doing home checks as I get to meet lots of excited families who want to give a dog a home for all the right reasons.  I’m not looking to see how tidy your home is!  I send my report back to the rescue based on the conversation and it’s up to the rescue if you get to adopt.  I don’t often hear if anyone has been successful.

Getting a rescue dog - no matter what age - is a challenge but worthwhile.  Until I got Rupert ALL my dogs had been rescues.  All with different characters and quirks. They made me the trainer I am today and I loved them all because they were rescues.  I needed them in my life as much as they needed me in theirs.  Edie was a rescue pup and she has turned out to be the best dog I’ve ever owned.  Just don’t mention it to Rupert!

Buying a puppy

If your heart is set on buying a puppy do lots of research before you part with a deposit or any money.  If you have decided on a particular breed, make sure it has the right characteristics to fit in with your lifestyle.  Don’t go buying a Border Collie if you just want a dog to mooch around with.  Likewise, if you want a dog to run with don’t buy a Bulldog.  Visit local dog shows and talk to other owners.  Each breed should have a breed club which often have a rescue side too.  The Kennel Club website has all the details of the breeds.

If you decide to get a cross breed you will also find a club that concentrates on Cockerpoos or Cavapoos.  For families who have allergies, there is a belief that some of these dogs are hypoallergenic.  It’s not always the case, so meet up with lots of different dogs to find out which are the best for your family.

So… you’ve made the decision and decided on the right type of dog for you. You’ve done your homework on what you want, what will be right for the dog and for you as well. You’ve made the commitment to change parts of your life to make dog ownership work.  You have understood and recognised that to start with the puppy cannot be left on its own for too long and that you will have to teach them right from the start.  Having a puppy is a blank canvas and you can mould the dog to your lifestyle easier than an older dog.  If you have children or cats, it is also easier to integrate a puppy.  

Where to buy a puppy?

In the old days most people heard about litters of pups via the local pet shop or dog walkers.  Now things have changed quite a bit.  Breeders should be regulated by a local council especially if they have a lot of breeding dogs.  There has been a huge campaign for “Lucy’s Law” to ban third parties from selling pups.  This means that pups should only be bought from homes where you can see the mum.

Some breeders are registered with the Kennel Club Assured Breeders scheme which gives you a little bit more confidence.  Other breeders can be found through the breed clubs.  And then there is the internet…!  The most popular site is Pets4Homes.  And there are some people on there who are genuinely selling nice pups.  But there are also a lot of people on there who are selling badly bred, sick pups for exorbitant prices.  In the end it comes down to what or who you feel comfortable with when you are discussing buying a pup from them.

There are some red flags for me that would stop me buying from someone.  Easy to say when you are at home but not easy when you are in front of the puppies and think you might be saving them from a fate worse than death or from a bad home.

See the pups at home with their mum.  Make sure that it is their mum and not just any female dog.  Watch how the mum interacts with the pups.  Does she actually look like them?  Seeing them on pre-recorded video is not always ideal and I know that with the long distances involved it may seem acceptable.  If you must do a long distance viewing either before you get the pup or during the time before you bring the pup home, try and make it a live video call.

Pictures of the parents and copies of their health paperwork (if they have any) are not good enough and can be falsified.  Some breeds have more health issues than others but if you have done your homework you will know what to look for.

Talk to the owners of both mum and dad and find out more about their temperament.  No point buying a pup from an anxious mum or dad and then expecting it to be less anxious.  Any sign of aggression from either parent to people or dogs is a big no from me.

Ask to see the relevant paperwork for first vaccinations and microchips.  You can always ask to speak to their vet if you have any concerns.  And the breeder must microchip the pup before it leaves to come to home with you.  This gives traceability to the breeder should anything go wrong.

NEVER EVER meet in a car park or a service station to pick up your pup.  And if the breeder offers to deliver the pup to you, please think carefully before agreeing.  But make sure that you have met the mum and the pup beforehand.

Don’t pay cash for the pup.  At least if you pay by bank transfer or card payment you will have a trail back to the breeder.

When you do visit the pups and the mum, spend some time with them.  Check the pups for fleas and ear mites.  Worms are harder to spot but the breeder have started the treatments before they leave.  Check their teeth as well to see that they are starting to come through and are okay.  Also have a look at their eyes - are they bright and clean?

Leave the children at home on the first visit.  They should be able to visit another time but if they go with you it will be tougher to be objective.

Are the pups clean and healthy?  Have they been house trained?  Have they been washed or bathed at all?  A clean puppy is not always a healthy puppy.

What about the environment?  Is it clean (I’m not talking show house here) and tidy?  Do the pups have their own space?  Do they live inside?  If they are living in an area outside of the house, eg kennels, have they had the chance to come inside and been socialised around families, children and older people etc.  Don’t be afraid to check the breeders ID.  Is it actually their home?

What are the pups eating?  A good quality diet?  Ask to see what they are fed on.  A good breeder will send you home with some food or will advise you what to buy in advance.  The breeder should also send you home with a blanket or toy that smells of the mum for those first few nights on their own.

Remember if you are at all concerned about the pup’s health or welfare walk away and report the breeder to the local council or the Kennel Club.  Don’t buy the pup just to rescue it.  You aren’t rescuing it.  There are lots more buyers out there and lots more pups to fill the demand.  You need to feel comfortable with the person you are buying from.  If something doesn’t sound right or doesn’t add up then go with your gut feeling.

I know it is hard when you have the pup there in front of you but, to some people, it’s no different from selling a car.  My best advice is do your research and never be afraid to say no.  Lucy’s Law was born out of a puppy Cavalier King Charles Spaniel called Lucy who was bought from a puppy farmer and suffered terribly.  For more information about the campaign and the law that was passed in 2020, visit https://www.gov.uk/government/news/lucys-law-spells-the-beginning-of-the-end-for-puppy-farming

Finally, I am here to help you from the beginning of your journey with your new family member even if that’s before you bring the puppy home or discuss if you’re ready to get a puppy!

Holiday with your dogs? Yes you can!

After the relaxing of the regulations regarding movement within the UK many of you will be thinking about getting away on holiday.  And with so many people having adopted or bought pups or dogs during the lockdown, you may be thinking about taking your dog away with you on a “staycation”.  

This year, for the first time ever I decided to get away for a few days with the dogs.  Usually I leave them with a family member and get a complete break from dogs and work but as I’m now on my own I thought I would bite the bullet and take them with me.  How difficult could it be?  So this article is a few tips about going away with your dog.

Finding a holiday rental is easier these days with lots of places accepting dogs.  If you want to stay in a hotel, ask for a ground floor room and check if you can take the dog into the bar to have a meal.  For self catering, you may find that you can only take two dogs with you as a maximum, not ideal if you and a friend want to both take your dogs away together and there are more than two.  Some of the budget hotels charge an extra cost per night per dog so include that in your budget.

As I type, I’m sitting in a converted mill house in West Sussex and we’ve had a lovely couple of days.  I found this place via booking.com and I’d recommend it to anyone.  However, there were a couple of things I didn’t expect.  No dogs are allowed on the furniture and a lovely clean thick carpet on the floor throughout.  As my dogs sleep on my bed, that’s been a bit of an issue but I have used dog blankets everywhere.  Bedlington Terriers don’t shed hair so that’s been a plus point.  The carpet was a bit of a worry with dirty feet from the beach so take loads of towels with you.  

Some places have an enclosed area directly attached to your property, but I knew there was no enclosed space around my place when I booked.  However, there is a small grass area to play in and the owners have made everything very secure around the main complex.  And there are plenty of poo bins.

I also had a good look round at local places we could visit.  I would never leave the dogs in the car and, as in most places, I wouldn’t be able to leave them at the property.  In the end I settled for the Weald & Downland Museum at nearby Goodwood.  Booking on line was really easy and I booked to park at West Wittering beach for the next day.  More on the museum visit later.

Packing was a bit more fraught than I thought it would be.  With the weather looking wet and rainy, I packed the dogs coats and towelling coats if they got wet or needed drying off on the beach.  For myself, I packed enough summer wear to last a month (nothing particularly warm so I’ve ended up wearing jeans and a hoodie) and forgot my own coat.  A quick visit to a charity shop (with dogs in tow much to the surprise of the volunteer) and I got a “packamac” type coat for £2.  Bargain!

Bearing in mind the sleeping arrangements, I should have brought the dogs beds with me.  I did bring the small travel crate and they have both been in there to rest and chill out.  And the blankets are going well.  In my courses I always suggest taking a crate with you so your dog has somewhere familiar to settle.  Both Rupert and Edie appreciated this and right now Edie is in there having a nap.  Rupert is on his blanket… on the armchair.  

Packing the dog food was easy.  I put the Butternut Box sachets into a small cool bag fully frozen.  I needed three sachets for the few days and some of their dried food as well.  So that was a full bag just on the dogs food including feeding bowls, spoon and travel water bowls.  However, the first night, Rupert didn’t want to eat and Edie ate just a little of hers.  Next morning, Rupert refused point blank to eat so we ended up having a bacon butty in a dog friendly cafe in Selsey.  I say, we… I did order extra bacon for the dogs.  Back at the mill, he refused again to eat so just had some dried food.  And this morning they completely ignored their breakfasts as they expected a bacon butty again.  When I had lunch, I got them some extra ham to have instead.  Goodness knows what they’ll be expecting for dinner.

Because of the change in food routine and, I expect, the change of the water here both of them have had rather runny poos.  Edie has been particularly put out of routine and suffered for it badly on the beach.  Luckily I was just by a poo bin.  I know she has a weak stomach and as she gets older I think it is going to be a bit more of a problem.  It doesn’t help that Rupert is on a special dry food now for his bladder and she likes eating it but it’s not good for her.  The good news has been that neither of them have christened the carpet.  We don’t have carpet at home and never had done since I’ve had either of them.  Edie usually likes to go and have a relaxing poo on any carpet.  But so far, so good.  I have less than 24 hours to go before she decides it’s too much of a temptation.

Going out has been a bit of a challenge.  Luckily it’s not been too warm here and I popped into a local supermarket to pick up a couple of things I forgot to bring for me to eat as well as have a look for a coat but no luck.  So we went into Selsey to have a mooch in the charity shops.  As above, I did get a coat and we went into three charity shops with the staff allowing the dogs in with me rather than me having to tie them up outside which I wouldn’t have done.  For those of you who don’t know Selsey it’s basically a very short high street with a few shops.  No more than a ten minute mooch.  Five if it’s a power walk.  If you have an unusual breed be prepared to stop every few steps.  People were coming out of the barbers to have a look at them, old folk wanted to stroke them and it added another 30 minutes to our walk.  However, the dogs were very happy to see everyone and I was relieved that they behaved.

After that we ducked into a lovely cafe called Paws with Friends.  There were already three dogs in there but everyone was relaxed and no one got rowdy.  Even Rupert piped down and sat calmly but that might have been more to do with the bacon butty.  If you’re coming here to visit, it’s a lovely place to sit and chat with other dog owners.  And it will help your dog with social skills.

After that we were off to the open air museum where they record the tv programme “The Repair Shop”.  I’ve long enjoyed the programme and it was a wonderful place to take the dogs.  Right from the start when we went straight into the reception, they were allowed in EVERY building (as long as they were on a short lead at all times) including the cafe.  Not in the food prep areas obviously, but everywhere else.  

We had a brilliant time going in and out of the Tudor, Medieval and Victorian buildings.  the dogs were happy to have a look at the houses and the items inside as well as seeing sheep, pigs, horses and ducks.  A lot of ducks.  One duck was a little too forward but Edie gave him a stare that sent him scuttling back into the lake.  There were a few other dogs around too but all of them seemed either too well behaved to bark or stunned that they were allowed in to everything.  Rupert and Edie came into the gift shop and we found a staffie cross already in there.  Not a sound.  Nothing.  I’m not sure who was more surprised… me or the other owner!

One thing I did leave in the car was their water but there were plenty of bowls around and I was able to get some fresh water from the ladies for Edie (she won’t drink water unless it’s fresh).  We spent a lovely two hours there wandering around and at the end of the visit they were both ready to get back for a nap.  I collected my pre-ordered cream tea and took it back to the mill so that I could relax.

Neither Rupert or Edie are bothered about very long walks but they have enjoyed being out and about with me.  We found a lovely walk near a local church (as per the guide from the hosts) and today we went to West Wittering beach.  Rupert had an amazing time doing zoomies on the beach and even Edie had a bit of a run.  Lots of good recalls (I have proof) and they seemed to really love having a stretch and a run.  Then off to Bracklesham Bay for lunch - they had the aforementioned ham - and I had a sandwich, cup of tea and an ice cream all while overlooking the sea.  I wouldn’t say it was a relaxing lunch as lots of dogs came past but they were so well behaved even when two horses who had been for a swim came past.  And yes, I got lots of questions about the dogs from people around.

We’re back home tomorrow and it has been a different but very nice break.  My top tips for making your doggie staycation a happy adventure are as follows. 

• If you do decide to take your dog away make sure that your dog is social and relaxed. It’s not worth upsetting your dog just for a few days away.
• Remember it’s not going to always be relaxing for you as you may be limited to where you can go and when.
• Check out the accommodation rules and regulations and make sure you are prepared to compromise if things aren’t quite what you expected.
• Try and be respectful of the place you are staying as they may have only recently started to allow dogs.  Even if they have had dogs stay before it’s good to leave them with a positive experience rather than spoil it for those who come after you.
• Own up if your dog causes any damage before you leave (Edie has marked the duvet cover despite having a blanket on there) and offer to pay for any extra costs.
• Take a crate, blankets, dog beds, food and water bowls, a long line, leads and coats just in case.  Plus your own towels for the dogs if you visit a beach or the weather is very wet.  Some of these things are provided but check first before you leave.
• Be prepared for your dog’s routine to be off - especially around eating or pooping.
• Expect people to want to stop you and chat, more so if your dog is an unusual breed or colour.  They are just interested and I am always aware that I am an ambassador for Bedlington Terriers.  I just don’t mention I’m a dog trainer…!
• Empty your car boot… I ended up taking a weekend case, a food bag for the dogs, the crate, blankets and my own food bag but if I’d taken their beds that would have been another two things to carry. 
• Have fun!

As for me, I’ll definitely be taking Rupert and Edie away again in the future!

Summer is finally here, so here’s some help about how to keep your dog safe and cool

Wow it’s hot out there at the moment… so I thought I’d offer some tips for dog care during the summer.

Try the five second rule. Put the back of your hand on the pavement and if it’s too hot to keep on there for five seconds it’s too hot for your dogs to walk on. Remember they are walking directly on their pads which can get burnt very quickly. Surfaces heat up at different rates. If in doubt walk on grass (not artificial) or dirt tracks.

Walks are better either early morning or evening. Take plenty of water with you and try and stop in the shade often. Always have water in the car too so that your dog can cool off. I usually have a couple of bowls and bottles of water just in case.

If your dog starts to overheat DON’T put cold water on them. Use tepid water and wrap them in a wet towel or tee shirt. Get them to the vets ASAP if they are struggling to breathe. Heat stroke can cause serious illness and even death.

At home, you can use a wet towel in the garden or buy a cool mat for your dog. The cool mat is full of gel that remains cool and your dog will be happy to lay on it in hot weather. Rupert used to love an old marble fireplace or a piece of slate to lay on when he was a pup. Your dog will find the coolest place in the house on their own. And that includes being in front of the fan. If I go out, I leave my two in the crate, with the fan running and the window open.

Finally, I’ve already seen this year a report in the paper about a dog being left in a car. Despite it being advised every year, people still leave their dogs in the car. Temperatures in cars is typically double what it is outside. So on a day when it’s 22 degrees, it can get over 40 degrees very quickly. Even leaving all the windows open doesn’t make a huge difference. Your dog doesn’t sweat like humans and they pant to release heat or their paws get damp. At high temperatures your dog can have a fit, have problems breathing and may very well become unconscious in just a few minutes. If you do see a dog struggling in a car, call the Police first for advice before you break in to the car. Sometimes, a few minutes in a shop can turn into a lot longer so the owner is probably not far away.

TO BE SAFE, IF YOU NEED TO GO OUT, LEAVE YOUR DOG AT HOME.

Stay safe and keep your dog cool!

Dog Thefts on the rise in Surrey

Many of you will have seen in the news and on social media, there has been a very worrying increase in thefts of dogs and puppies.  These thefts are taking place at homes, when people are on walks and through adverts offering pups for sale.

In fact, as the price of puppies has increased during the lockdown, thefts have also increased by 65% in Surrey since 2019 according to local press.  This worrying trend has seen people being approached by strangers on their walks or dogs are being snatched during off lead times when they are out of sight.

How can you keep your dog safe during these difficult times?  Well, the first thing is simply to keep your dog on lead.  Not ideal, but there are many enclosed dog fields where you could rent some off lead time for a small fee.  And I am always encouraging owners to teach their dogs that being on lead is a good thing.  My two are walked mostly on lead but they are just as happy.

What else can you do? I’d start by reinforcing and practicing your recall.  Can you get your dog back at home? In the garden? Or out on a walk?  No recall is 100% guaranteed but if you keep practicing, you’ll get a quicker and better response.

When should you call your dog back?  I never let my two out of sight.  I like to see them at all times.  Partly because I can’t run as quick as them, but also, because I want to know where they are and what they are doing. If they go too far, I call them and reward them for coming back.

Try and walk your dog in areas which you know well, with friends or other dog walkers.  And stick to daylight hours if possible.

If someone approaches you or you see a van or car parked in front of you call your dog back and put it on lead.  Then turn back and walk away from the person you are not sure about.  You’re not being rude, just sensible.

Here are a few tips for keeping your dog safe.

• Make sure you have your mobile with you fully charged.

• Ensure your dog has an ID tag with your details on its collar or harness.  Never put your dog’s name on the tag.  You can see details on the Kennel Club website of what you need to include.

• Make sure your microchip details are up to date.  If your dog isn’t microchipped (which it should be by law) get it done asap.

• Never leave your dog unattended in the garden, especially late at night or outside a shop.  I see so many dogs just sitting waiting and it’s an opportunity for someone to take them especially if your dog is friendly.

• Practice, practice, practice your recall!

For more information on my reliable recall workshops and guide, please contact me.

How to work at home with your dog

Because we are living in strange times and have no idea when this will be over, people are becoming worried about the effect the lockdown will have on their dogs.  They are concerned that they will miss out on long walks in different places or seeing their doggie friends.  If you have a multi dog household, it will be easier for your dogs to socialise together.  But if you have just one dog, you may be finding it a little more difficult to keep them busy and happy, especially if you are working from home.  Suddenly, your dog has you at home all day and wants your attention.

My two are used to it. They regularly help me with emails and video calls - Rupert lays on my feet and Edie is perched on the top of the sofa. I used to look after Gladys the Schnauzer and she used to sit next to me with a paw on the keyboard.  Because my dogs are used to me working, they don’t worry too much about what I’m doing and they tend to sleep until I’m finished.

So how are you going to keep them entertained while you work?  Get into a routine. Right now, we’re all being told that a routine is good and will keep us mentally healthy as this continues.  My routine is that I get up and walk my dogs first, have breakfast (give them their breakfast at the same time) and then, when I get the laptop out they know I’m working.  They have lots of toys to play with if they want and it’s important that your dog has something to challenge his or her mental skills.  Try a snuffle mat or a big chew toy.  Fill a kong with yummy treats or even their breakfast in and let them chew.  You can make it tougher by putting in a cardboard box and covering it with newspapers so they have to find it. Or put treats in a plastic bottle and let them chase it round.

Once they’ve had a chance to burn off some energy, get them to settle down and you’ll be able to work in peace and quiet for a couple of hours.  During the day, when you take breaks to get coffee or tea or a snack, spend some time with your dog.  Go out into the garden, if you have one, or walk round the block on the lead.  Now is not the time to be practicing your off lead skills.  I use a 2m lead which is perfect for social distancing.  Let your dog sniff and work on that loose lead walking (which you’ve been promising to sort out for ages) so that your dog walks calmly.  Think of it like a treadmill in the gym.  It’s not supposed to be exciting!

If your dog is used to a crate or a playpen, give them a time out when you want to make a call or join a video meeting.  My dogs always bark when I’m on the phone so I go into the bedroom to get away from them.  Let’s face it, trainers dogs are a nightmare! It means I can think clearly without the constant “arf arf” noise in the background - as many of you will have heard if you’ve called me!

If you have children at home as well, encourage them to play with your dog.  Home schooling needn’t be boring for humans or canines.  Let your children read to your dog (they are excellent listeners) or ask your children to draw your dog.  Maybe a bit of exercise for everyone in the garden to burn off that energy!  If you have worked with a clicker before you will know that kids love this type of trick training. I’ll be loading up some videos of my two doing the basics of clicker as time goes on.

Finally, when you have finished work for the day don’t forget to give your dog a bit of praise and attention.  I usually make sure that Edie and Rupert get a walk and a bit of a chat after a quiet day.  Normally, I’d let them have a run but at the moment, it’s easier to just walk them on lead.  They really don’t mind.  All I have to say is “who wants a wee wee” and they are ready.

I know that it will be stressful for you with all the changes to your normal day.  And you may worry that your dog will get attached to you but right now, they are looking to you for a bit of comfort while everyone is so anxious.  Cuddles are allowed all day and you’ll find that most dogs are really good office co-workers.

Stay home and stay safe...

Sara, Edie and Rupert.

Just walking the dog

In this week's email, I mentioned that I would put up some tips about teaching your dog to walk on the lead without pulling.  It's now a recommendation that dogs are kept on lead to stop anyone getting too close to another owner.  And while you may think you have a good recall, no dog will be 100% proof.  

A lot of owners don't use leads much.  If they live in a rural area they may take the dog out in the car and straight out of the car to the walk area without even putting the lead on.  Even in cities and the suburbs, people feel that a dog needs a long run off lead to give it some exercise.  My dogs actually walk on a lead 90% of the time.  Is it cruel?  Not at all.  Am I restricting their exercise?  No.  They do get a run off lead when we're at a secure field, an enclosed park or in a woodland, but most of the time they are walking with me.  And they are walking on a loose lead more or less to heel without me even having to say the "H" word!

Think about the equipment you use.  I mostly use harnesses for puppies to train them to walk in a balanced way.  In fact, I taught Edie to walk on a harness from 8 weeks and it was only when I put a collar on her to go to the groomers that I realised she didn't know what I wanted her to do.  I had to teach her that a collar was okay as well.  I used to use the Fleece Lined ones from Dog-Games but they have stopped selling them direct so I now recommend the fleece dog harnesses from eDog Products.  They offer a half size harness as well as breed specific ones.  There is a measuring guide on the website www.fleecedogharnesses.co.uk or you can call Joanne at their office to help you find the right size.

If you do decide to use a collar and lead, try and find a wide collar rather than the small puppy ones.  Remember your dog's neck is very sensitive and a thin one can be very painful and stressful for your puppy.  Once your dog is older, you can change without any problems.  Both my dogs now wear a collar from Wiff Waff Designs and it's a decent size on their neck as well as having lots of funky designs.  

As for a lead, I use the Dog-Games fleece leads because they wash well and are better for my hands.  I use the 2m lead (perfect for social distancing) which gives my dogs a bit of room to walk with me rather than being made to walk with me.

At last we can get on to the training part!  I truly believe that the walk starts before you even go out of the door.  I have a small lobby area and I make my dogs wait by the door before I put their collars on.  Yes, Rupert does like to pick up his lead and run about, but as soon as I ask them to wait, they stop and we get prepared before the door is opened.  Once I am happy that they are ready, the door opens and we go downstairs to the outer lobby door.  Again, I make them wait.  I have another set of steps and I can't have them pulling me or anyone else down the stairs.  By reinforcing slow walking (usually I say "slowly" to keep them steady) I am getting them ready to walk nicely.  

Remember it doesn't matter which side you walk your dog.  I keep my difficult dogs on my right side as my right arm is stronger.  But when I am in the show ring, Rupert (who normally walks on the right) has to switch to the left.  He gets it really well and so far hasn't put a paw wrong.  Edie is usually on the left side because she walked there when my bad boy (Bertie) was on the right side.  She never changed.  Does it matter to you?  No, my two have learned where I want them to walk with me.  And I want them to walk with me.  Not me being pulled along or them off having fun on their own.  How many times do you see owners on their phones or listening to something without even seeing where their dog is.  You want to be the main focus of your dog's adventures.  They should be walking with you because it's fun!

It's important that your dog doesn't just rush straight out of the door.  Make your dog sit and wait and then walk out calmly together.  If they are getting in the car, don't encourage them to jump in without being on lead.  Part of the process is to walk them to the car and get them in under control.  If you are driving to the park or to the woodland, make sure your dog is secured and when you get out of the car, put them on lead again.  Never walk them around a car park without a lead on.  

If you're just doing a block walk, then start off together.  The first five minutes or so are the most exciting part of the walk for a dog.  They are revved up and ready to go out.  Sometimes they pull but I just stop and wait until they look back at me and then encourage them to come towards me.  Once the lead is loose, we go forward again.  The video will show you what I mean.  I just wait to get their attention before starting off again. 

Alternatively, if your dog is a real puller, you can do the "this way" exercise.  The moment your dog pulls you turn 180 degrees in the opposite direction, give your cue word (I use "let's go") and almost try and catch them out so they have to hurry after you.  When I'm training this I give a treat after a few steps, not every step.  Pick a lamppost or tree and try and get there without pulling.  The dog gets the treat when they get to the object, not during the exercise.

When training puppies, you can drop a treat each step but I honestly feel that this encourages your dog to keep it's nose down and not take any notice of you.  They are just walking for the treats.  And it encourages them to snuffle about in whatever is on the floor when your out walking.  You don't want them picking up stones, tissues etc.  So I only use treats for walking exercises very sparingly.  The only time I do use them is to teach my dog which side to come to for the treat.  Tapping your leg and getting your dog to come and stand next to you helps them to work with you.  Treat when they are beside you not in front, which is often where the dog is used to getting a treat.  

Realistically, it takes about 2 weeks to get a dog to stop pulling and you will need to be consistent and firm about it.  If you go out and have a terrible walk, don't stress about it.  Put it down to experience and try and again next time.  I've actually spent a week getting out of my driveway before I even got to the pavement.  And I've never been afraid to go back indoors after 15 minutes.  

While we're in lockdown and you have to keep your dog on a lead it's a good time to practice your walking on lead.  Use your lounge, your hallway, your garden and when your dog is walking nicely with you in these areas go further and start by walking round the block.  If you need to keep your dog closer to you, you can shorten the lead and if your dog barks or lunges at another dog, turn around and walk away.  Don't stop and think about what to do.  Make the distance bigger between you and the other dog or person.  But remember you're concentrating on walking not the noise and the rumpus your dog is making.  That's for another article.  

So here are the instructions for a nice, well behaved walk with your dog.

1.  The walk starts at home.  Make them wait to go through the door calmly.

2.  Allow them to have space on the lead to walk with you.  Don't pull them too tight or close.

3.  Get your dog to stand beside you on the side you want them to come back to.

4.  Start walking.  If the dog pulls to the end of the lead, stop, wait and encourage them to come back to you.  Don't go forward until they are on a loose lead.

5.  Lots of praise.  I tell my two they are walking beautifully all the time.  I give the odd treat when I need to but mostly I use praise.

6.  Don't be afraid to go home if it's not working.  You can always try again next time.

7.  Lots of practice in quiet places before you even think about going out with other dogs and people around.

8.  Relax.  If you're stressed, your dog will be anxious and stressed too.  

9.  Keep practicing.  You wouldn't put on ice skates and expect to be Torvill & Dean without a practice first.

10. Ask for help if you need it.

I was going to put a video on the website but haven't been able to find a way to do it yet so if you visit my Facebook page you'll see a little bit of me and the dogs walking on a loose lead.   

Happy Easter to everyone!

Sara, Edie and Rupert

Don't leave me..!

There has been a lot in the press recently about the changes in lifestyle that most of us are going through relating to working from home.  And while some people are enjoying this change, they have realised that their dogs are becoming used to their humans being around more.  In fact, their whole routine has been disturbed.  I've had messages from lots of clients asking about what happens when they go back to their normal work pattern and they have to leave their dogs again.  It's something that people are worried about.

I've thought about this a lot this week and I can honestly say to you that your dogs will be fine.  If they were used to you being at home (like my two) then it's no change.  If you work or have a busy lifestyle and are out a lot your dogs will be happy for you to go out when you can.  I put my two in a crate when I go out.  It's their safe space and they are more relaxed and rested when I get home.  I've done it since they were both puppies and I've never had a problem with leaving my dogs from day one.  But I have two dogs and they are together all the time so it does make a difference.

When I used to do doggie day visits or dog walking, the dogs got into a routine pretty quickly.  They recognised my footsteps or my car and they knew that after the walk or visit I would be leaving again.  What we forget is that our dogs need more rest, especially during the winter.  I used treats to settle them down again before I left and made sure that they felt safe, comfortable and happy.  Most of the time I'd leave the radio on (Classic FM or Heart or even Radio 4 were the most popular) or in some cases - and I do this for my own dogs - I'd leave the television on.  These days your dogs can see the screen and seeing a welcoming face or hearing a normal programme is good for them.  My two love Bargain Hunt or Money for Nothing.  I read yesterday of a zoo that's been playing cartoons for the chimpanzees to watch as they missed having visitors.  So do think about the tv if you can.  

Note: I had a client - an Italian Greyhound called Monty - who loved to watch daytime tv.  One day he had changed channels to the news before his first visit of the day.  Coming back in on the second visit, he'd changed the channel again to Only Fools and Horses.  So it's fun to find out what your dogs recognise.  Edie also loves MasterChef... it's her sleeping music.

So, unless your dog has shown signs of separation anxiety before the lockdown there is very little chance that your dog will be upset when things go back to normal (whatever that will be).  However, if your dog has been very clingy or is quite young and not had the chance to learn to be on their own, you will have to start your routine again.  

Firstly, your dog will know you are going out whatever you do or say.  The old idea of putting your coat on and having a cup of tea so that your dog gets less stressed at you putting your coat on doesn't mean that your dog is going to be calm when you leave.  The biggest clue to my two is either me putting on my work fleece (well, that orange is a bit bright) or shouting "won't be long" at them when I put them in the crate.  They know that the crate means I will be a long time... more than an hour... but they are okay with it because they know that I will be back.  Don't worry about what cues you are giving your dog.  And try and stay calm.

Secondly, use an enclosed area or a crate where your dog can relax, away from the front door, the hallway or windows that they can look out of.  Put a t-shirt in their bed or basket that smells of you so they have something to sniff.  Set up the area as a "chill out" zone for your dog before you even leave the house.  Leave a few toys and a chewy treat or a filled Kong.  And start to use this NOW when you go in the garden, to the car, out the front door to chat to the postman or even to go and have a shower or do some work.  The more your dog gets used to a calm, quiet area, the less stressed they will be. 

Start by building up the time you are gone gradually - a minute, five minutes, 15 minutes and so on.  If you have to shut a door between you, again build it up gradually.  Your dog may bark or whimper or scratch the door (which is why I use a crate).  Don't return until your dog is quiet even if they shut up for just a second.  And reward them for being quiet.  Edie used to get a treat when I left and a treat when I came back.  Eventually, she was shoving me out the door to get the treat because it was a special treat that she wanted and me hanging around was delaying her getting the treat!

What do you need to do when you do leave?  Get a routine going.  Walk your dog or play with them before you are going out.  Not a long walk, just enough to stretch their legs and give them something to sniff.  Playing or doing some training - maybe clicker work - will wear them out.  Then feed them.  A dog with a full tummy will settle down and sleep a lot.  Not a whole meal, but enough that they are filled.  Wet food always makes them more relaxed, I think, just like when I'm going to sleep I will have a hot milky drink or a biscuit.

Get ready to leave.  Be calm and just say "bye" and go.  Don't keep worrying about the dog.  It's the first 20 minutes that are crucial.  During this time they will be a bit confused about where you are going.  Leave a very chewy treat like a pigs ear or a filled Kong that will last longer than a few minutes.  And give it to them before you leave so they are focussed on it before they are left alone.  By remaining calm, you will set the tone for the dog to feel that things are okay.

Finally, if your dog is really struggling there are lots of remedies - both chemical and organic - to help your dog over come the anxiety.  I recommend the Valerian & Scullcap tablets from Dorwest Herbs or Dr Bach's Rescue Remedies in their water.  But it may be that a visit to the vet would be a good idea to check that your dog is healthy before you think about doggie Prozac!

It's never easy being a dog owner and with things so changeable at the moment, we are right to be concerned that our dogs are finding this current atmosphere rather stressful.  They will be picking up on your stress and worries.  So try not to worry too much about something that may or may not happen.  Enjoy the time together and if you do find that things are not settling back into your routine then I'm here to help you with some more techniques.

Have a good week, stay home and stay safe!

Sara, Edie and Rupert

Jack! Jack! Come Back...

It's 108 years since the Titanic sank and over 20 years since the film was released in 1997.  What's that got to do with recalling your dog?  Well, if you remember Rose (Kate Winslet) spends most of the film shouting "Jack!" as she and he run around the ship while it's sinking.  I was reminded of this when I was in a class teaching recall only to hear an owner shouting "Jack... Jack!" like she was channelling Rose.

Recall is something a lot of owners struggle with.  And I see a lot of dogs who are running around aimlessly not knowing what to do.  Of all the problems I'm asked to help with, recall is actually the easiest one!  But there are a couple of things you need to know before you start.

1.  Your dog is NOT being naughty.  Dogs don't do naughty in the same way as we think.  They just are having fun not coming back.

2.  Dogs are NOT a mind reader.  How many owners just shout their names and expect them to know what you're asking.

3.  You need to give your dog a good reason to come back to you.

4.  NO RECALL IS EVERY 100% SOLID.

Okay, let's do the last one first.  No matter how interesting, how much training or how much you trust your dog there will ALWAYS be a reason for them not to come back to you.  Just like humans, dogs don't do the same thing in the same way every time.  If you want a dog to be 100% then get a Sony Aibo dog.  They will, I promise, always come back!

Dogs aren't naughty in the same way as humans.  They want your attention.  They will take things from you, run off and once they hear you calling them they know they have your attention.  A client's elderly aunt had a Labrador pup who took her shoes and put them under the kitchen table.  First step, Auntie telling the pup he was naughty.  So he did it again.  More shoes under the table until eventually Auntie had to go under the table to get them.  There they were under the table, with the shoes and the pup very happy to be sitting there with her full attention...

As for mind reading, imagine if someone called your name.  Would you know what they wanted?  If I wanted your attention, calling your name is a great way to get it.  (A whistle is even better!) But if I wanted you to get a pint of milk from the shop?  Saying your name is just not communicating properly.  And it's communication with your dog that you need to build on.  No, they don't understand every word (well, okay sometimes they seem to) but they do like clear and consistent communication and instructions.  So call their name yes, but make sure you follow it up with a cue word like "come" or "here".  TELL THEM WHAT YOU WANT THEM TO DO.

Finally, number three is one of the most important parts of recall.  Give them a reason to come back.  I call it the "curly-whirly" effect.  Most of my clients know what I mean as I mention this a lot in class.  I've even been known to give them out at the end of the courses or workshops!  If someone holds up a curly-whirly and waves it at me - I'm there.  No matter how delicious anything else is, or how fabulous the shoes are... I'm going for the 99p curly-whirly.  My family know it's a great way to get my attention.  But it wouldn't matter who it was (well maybe someone in a hoodie in the park after dusk) I would always go for the curly-whirly.  Honestly, tell me you aren't thinking about eating one now?  Loads of clients usually dive in to the sweet shop on the way home... so remember that you need to have the magic ingredient in your recall.

So let's reorganise those points.

1.  Get your dog's attention.  Call their name or blow a whistle to get them to look at you.  If they aren't looking at you, then they aren't listening.

2.  Tell them what you want them to do.  There's no point just yelling their name over and over.  Use your cue word "come" or "here" or "treat" or "sausage" as long as they know what you are asking them to come back.

3.  Hold out the treat and wave it.  You're not bribing them.  You're making yourself more interesting.  Make sure you use a treat that they LOVE and that they NEVER get any other time.  Edie loves anything fishy and Rupert loves cheese.  It's fun trying to find out what they do like and what they don't.

4.  When they come to do DON'T ask them to sit down first.  Reward them as soon as they are next to you.  I hold the treat close to me so that my dogs come to me.  And while they're eating the treat I put the lead on.  I always ALWAYS put the lead back on.  What it teaches your dog is that the lead is okay and a good thing not something to run away.

And there you go!  You need to practice this in your lounge, in your hallway and in your garden until it's a consistent recall.  Don't start off in the outside world until your dog understands what you want.  Once you have your dog recalling at home, take a long line and practice in a quiet, semi enclosed area.  Again, take your time but eventually you can work up to a consistent recall even when there are more interesting things (like a curly-whirly) around.  And keep practicing.  The more you practice you put in, the better your recall will become!